Sunday, 24 April 2016

Hindagal Raja Maha Viharaya


Source - http://kandyholiday.com/places-of-interest/kandy-temples/hindagala-temple

      Hindagala Raja Maha Viharaya is one of the places that one must visit in the historical city of Kandy, which exemplify the class of Sinhalese art, craft and architecture.

       Hindagala Raja Maha Viharaya is situated in the Kandukarapahala Korale of Udapalatha Division of Kandy District, which can be reached through Peradeniya-Delthota road, few kilometers away  from Galaha junction.


 Source - https://www.google.lk/maps/place/Hindagala

       There are two entrances, both on to the left side of the road, one(tar road) heading towards North Western side of the temple where the Avasage (Monk Residence) is situated and the other one is a fleet of steps heading straight to the temple starting near the ambalama.


Entrance to stone staircase

Stone staircase leading to the temple

Avasage (Mon Residence)
Source - http://www.panoramio.com

Hindagala Raja Maha Viharaya has a history dating back to pre-Christian era, probably to 3rd century B.C. when Buddhism was introduced to Sri Lanka. The cave with the drip-ledge (katarama) had been a hermitage where Buddhist monks (Bikkhu) had resided and was later transformed into a “Pathimagara”(Image house). The verandah with timber pillars, the roof and some paintings were done during the Kandyan era (14th century A.D.).

There are two rock inscriptions to be found in the site, from which the oldest one dates back to 6th century A.D. and it was for the construction of bodhigara. According to paleographical evidence, the other inscription belongs to 7th century A.D. which is fragmentary. 

The second rock inscription says that the ancient name of the monastery was “Vataka-Vahara”. The painting above the shrine which could be dated back to 7th century B.C., portraits the Buddha residing in Indrasala cave in Magadhadesha (North-eastern India)  where God Indra (Sakra) is illustrated asking questions and the Buddha answering them for the satisfaction of Indra. According to Prof.Senarath Paranavithana the name “Hindagala” was derived from the name “Indrasala” or “Hindasala”.

                            Painting above the shrine- Lord Buddha and God Indra
There are many legends that surrounds Hindagala Raja Maha Viharaya. The Gazetteer of Central Province compiled by A.C.Lawrie in 1896, refers to a legend of erection of the recumbent Buddha statue in the center, to Queen Henakanda Biso Bandara whose original name was Lilawathi, a royal lady who is believed to have lived in the latter part of the 9th century. The legend says that the queen was travelling through the village in the night, had asked for torches from the employees of the local chief. The employees who were unable to recognize her, had asked her to obtain it from the old man, referring to the Buddha statue in the cave. The queen was annoyed by this insult and had confiscated all the lands of the local chief and had donated them to the monastery next morning.

In another legend related to Henakanda Biso Bandara, says that she had waited in the ambalama for a torch (Hulueliya-a light) and an assistant to help her to go up to the temple, from the walauwa on a visit to Hidagala. The Walauwe Nilame who did not abide by the Royal lady’s request had sent a message saying her that she can get the ‘Hulueliya’ from the ‘lokkan’ in the cave. The legend says that the recumbent Buddha statue was built by her.

There is a belief among the villagers that King Walagamba  (103, 89-76 B.C) had shot an arrow (“eeya”) while he was travelling through the jungle, where the king found the arrow near a large rock which looked like a seated elephant. Therefore, the village was known as “Vidigala” meaning the rock (gala) which was shot (viddha), which later transformed to “Hindigal” and to the present day name  Hindagala.

The land of entire Hindhagala village between Liyanagaha, Nadaha, Ethpara and the Mahaveli river had been donated to the temple which devolved along with the “Rajakari panguwa” (service tentures). Therefore the village falls under a “Viharagama” (village of the Viharaya).Dope Thera had claimed in a statement made to the Temporalities Commission, that he built two statues of Buddha in the cave in 1820 A.D.

When the Kandyan Kingdom fell to British on 02nd March 1815, the Sacred Tooth Relic of Shakyamuni  Gauthama Buddha (Vaama Dhantha Dhathu) had been taken to Pusulpitiya Raja Maha Viharaya in Kothmale. Later on 22nd April 1815, it was brought to Kandy by “perahara” (procession) on the assurance of John Doyle who is considered as the first British resident in Kandy, that its safety and performance of rites and rituals without any laps. On the way to Kandy it was decided to keep the Tooth Relic in the Hindagala Raja Maha Viharaya for a night as it was getting dark by that time.

Bell tower
Entrance to the cave with the stupa






















Roof of bell tower cover with traditional flat tiles

Stone staircase leading towards the temple meets with a square shaped bell tower acting as a gate way to the main shrine. The bell tower has two roofs in which  the first roof rests on four pillars which are probably made using stones or bricks and plastered with clay which are painted in white. On top of theses pillars, there are twelve wooden pillars (three on each corner) on which the second roof rests which is a pyramid shaped pitched roof. Both roofs are covered with traditional flat tiles (Pethi Ulu)

Drip-ledge ( Katarama)
The main shrine is built with the use of  a cave where a drip-ledge (katarama) had been constructed to drain off rain water. The rock which creates the cave runs for a very long span covering different ground levels, where it has created another comparatively small cave just below the ground level of the main premises where a stupa has been constructed.

  This temple belongs to cave temple with a roof where there is a double pitched roof, which  is a main architectural element in the Kandyan buildings. It was covered with traditional flat tiles (Pethi Ulu), and had been replaced very recently with Spanish S-tiles which are similar to half round tiles (Sinhala Ulu) . which is rather a doubtful choice since it does not create the same radiant image it used to have.
Roof covered with traditional flat tiles (Pethi Ulu)
Roof covered with Spanish S-Tiles


The roof has a very complicated plan using timer rafters, beams, purlins and other vertical, horizontal and diagonal timber members which certainly is a fine example in terms of technology and aesthetics. The rafters are aligned accurately using a “hee liya”   which is a technique used during Kandyan era.





Rafters aligned with the use of Hee Leeya
The roof is supported on top of fourteen wooden pillars which are placed on a stone slab are decorated with “pekada” and other elements. The original timber pillars which are elaborated with magnificent carvings are now been exhibited at the Kandy Museum at Sri Dalada Maligawa and at Dutch Museum at Pettah. The perifary is demarcated by a wooden  “Biralu” fence which is also a traditional Kandyan feature.
Pekada
Varendah
       The shrine wall has been constructed using huge stones and clay mortar, plastered with clay which is 1.6m (approx.) in  thickness, which acts as a thermal mass creating a cooler and a comfortable interior.  Both inner wall and the outer wall are painted with painting belonging to Kandyan era and there Anuradhapura era paintings to be found on some parts of the outer wall and on the rock itself. The entrance to the shrine is decorated with a sculptured “Makarathorana” with two deities on either sidesInside the shrine there are three Buddha statues. The largest is a recumbent Buddha statue (Sathapena) and on to its right hand side there is a standing Buddha statue (Hiti) and a seated Buddha statue (Hindhi).
Makara Thorana




Paintings on the outer wall

Paintings on the outer wall

Inside the shrine
Seated Buddha

There are lot of things to be learnt from this wonderful temple in terms of art, architecture, landscape, craft and spirituality, which is why these have inspired both scholars and lay people of different levels for centuries and it is very important that we appreciate and look after these masterpieces  for the future generations.


Photography - Rajitha Katugaha

References -
  • Senevirathne.A.(2013) Kandha Udarata Maha Nuwara. Central Cultural Fund, Ministry for Cultural Affairs and Arts
  • Hewapathirana.D. (2008) Disi Ruu Pelahara: Bodhu Hagum Varna Rekhawen. Sri Lanka Presidential Office and Sri Dhaladha Maligawa
  • Udagama.U. (2007,November 04).  The many legends that surround the Hindagala Raja Maha Viharaya. Sunday Times:Kandy Times
  • Sri Lanka Travel Guide (2011). Hindhagala Raja Maha Viharaya. Retrieved by http://www.sldestinations.info/2011/02/hindagala-temple.html#.VTzamCGqqko
  • Jayatilake.R.L. (2005). Hindagala Raja Maha Vihara:Cave Paintings in Decay. Retrieved by http://www.lankalibrary.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=818

Tuesday, 12 April 2016

Thickness of Pollution


   The above two photographs were taken on 25th February 2016 at 5.00 p.m. from the University of Moratuwa premises, looking towards the city of Colombo, in which one can notice buildings such as Lotus Tower.
   The photographs were taken shortly after a rain and the thick brown layer can be easily spotted, which is in fact a layer of polluted air / smoke emitted from the Colombo city.